Italy: Heady heights

But the residents are not merely displaced Austrians. Ninety per cent are of Ladin origin - a culture embedded here for centuries. Besides being proficient in Italian and German, natives speak Ladin as their mother tongue. The dialect dates back to the Roman Empire and is a mixture of Latin and the ancient Rhaetian language. Though frequently threatened with extinction, there have been concerted efforts to keep Ladin alive and it is enjoying a revival.

Getting there

Stay: The four star superior Hotel Gran Baita in Selva offers summer/autumn packages from E910 (£670) to E1,330 per person for seven nights’ half board, based on two people sharing.
Fly/drive: Innsbruck, Verona, Venice and Milan Bergamo with airlines including EasyJet, Ryanair and BA.
More info: valgardena.it/en, pinelodgedolomites.com

Whatever the season, there is much to do in this picture-postcard region, including language courses. I preferred to learn to cook Ladin-style.

Anna Messner Perathoner welcomed myself and fellow mountain walkers into her fairytale home, perched above the valley. Inside, the wooden chalet is cosy and traditional with indoor sauna and smokehouse. Over a couple of hours she showed us wannabe chefs how to make Crafuncins, a spinach-filled ravioli, and apfelstrudel. The results were tasty and washed down well with Lagrein, a rich Tyrolean red.

The calorie-laden cuisine is all-important in an area where temperatures drop below freezing. Yet Val Gardena also boasts 300 days of sunshine a year, which explains the locals' affinity to the outdoors. During the winter, the region is a Mecca for snow-lovers.

The Dolomiti Superskipass offers a 1,220km of slopes and 450 ski lifts across 12 ski areas and is the world's largest ski carousel. Nevertheless tourism is far from seasonal. If, like me, you have a head for heights but no experience with the white stuff, you cannot go wrong in Val Gardena. Also known as the Pale Mountains, the Dolomites are one of the most imposing mountain landscapes in the world, with the sun splashed and ever-changing colours of orange, red and pink.

Together with my fellow trekkers, I set out to conquer the jagged peaks of the Naturalparc Puez-Geisler. What started as a gentle stroll, soon became challenging as the terrain grew steeper and the air thinner. From the outset, the trail - with its sharp ascents - appeared daunting. Yet while you must be mindful of the loose scree underfoot, the surrounding panorama pushes you onwards and upwards.

Besides the views and the sense of accomplishment, there is another reward at the top. A short distance away, at 2,410 m above sea level, sits the Sofie Hut - a great spot to relish your achievement, enjoy a glass of prosecco and some delicous Ladin dishes.

The quickest route down to Selva is to take a chair lift. Yet the air up here is so good, it's almost addictive so instead I opted for a two-and-a-half hour ramble back to civilisation. The route tumbles down fields and forests, mountains and meadows. Patches of edelweiss line our way and the hills are alive with the sound of cow bells.

Along the way are dotted a number of unusual wood carvings, including a giant chainsaw which appears to be cutting down a tree. It is an unconventional example of a local longstanding woodcarving tradition. Practised since 1600, the artform has focused on religious artefacts, but has more recently veered towards bold and modern art.

Among the new generation of carvers are cousins Aron and Gehard Demetz, who are internationally acclaimed. Their often haunting work can be seen at their private studios, or by booking a stay at the luxurious Pine Lodge which houses several of their striking sculptures.

Conveniently positioned on the south facing side of Val Gardena, this five star chalet comes with a chef and butler. Besides four lovely en-suite bedrooms, it houses a gym, pool, home cinema, ski room and hot tub.

My mountain base, however, was the Gran Baita - not quite as intimate, but a lovely and more affordable place to stay. Recent renovations have created an oasis of calm throughout the Alpine lodge, but especially in the stunning pool and spa area - an ideal place to relax after my long and challenging hike across the mountainous terrain.