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JC Stays: Allegretto Vineyard Resort, California

A taste of Tuscany in the California coast's wine region

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With California’s full-bodied reds beating Chianti at its own game, the area’s lush central coast has proven as impressive a wine region as the hills of Tuscany. So the decision to create the Allegretto Vineyard Resort in the image of a Tuscan wine estate is not as contradictory as the concept might at first appear.

The baroque architecture and ochre stucco might be ostentatiously grand compared to the simple buildings of the surrounding farm country, but the interiors are faithful to the Italianate spirit, all dark wood, terracotta and ceramics.

Many of the paintings on the walls are local, while sculptures have been imported from all over the world to decorate the corridors and gardens.

Rooms are spacious and traditionally furnished, ours opening onto a huge open courtyard with seats around a firepit where we enjoyed sipping a delicious glass of estate-grown Cabernet Sauvignon in the balmy dusk before dinner.

Beyond, in the extensive grounds, we clocked a pool with cabanas, distant views of terraced vines and an intriguing sonic maze - a hedged circle emitting soothing sounds as the visitor wanders through, a neat link between the outdoor offerings and those of the in-house spa.

While there are plenty of restaurant options in nearby Paso Robles, it would be a shame not to dine in at the hotel’s Cello restaurant at least once, especially at a table on the breezy landscaped terrace. Vegetarian options are plentiful, including great salads and risottos and there is always fresh seasonal fish on the menu.

Naturally, the wine list is extensive and includes some spectacular - and pricey - bottles from the Allegretto estate; for the full lowdown on local wines, schedule a session in the hotel’s tasting room first.

Do venture out to explore Paso Robles as well, a charmingly unspoiled early California town just a mile down the road with an eclectic European designer boutique on the town square and retro mall positively packed with vintage jewellery.

The central park surrounding an Arts and Crafts town hall is a delightful place to join locals walking their dogs or gossiping on the benches as well.

It’s often missed by travellers heading up Highway 101 from Los Angeles, who tend to turn onto the scenic Route 1 coast road after passing San Luis Obispo.

But it’s only a minimal detour to what is now the most important wine town on California’s central coast is; Route 46 connects Paso Robles with the coast via a beautiful drive through verdant canyons.

And if one taste of Italy isn’t quite enough, a few miles north lies the grand baroque statement that is Hearst Castle, packed with original European antiques.

 

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