In its 70s heyday, Jersey was a magnet for British holidaymakers, before the rush to more farflung destinations led tourists away from this beautiful island, renowned for its beaches and the gardens which flourish in its mild climate.
And this jewel of the Channel Islands remains delightfully laid-back, its retro allure making it a restful option after an exhausting year — not to mention the fact that being in the Common Travel Area ensures an easier travel option, with no isolation and minimal testing required.
Part of the kingdom of Normandy until 1204 and barely an hour by ferry from the northwest coast of France, this British crown dependency is a tempting mix of the familiar and the more exotic.
All the place names are in French, there’s a 13th century Norman castle but the feel and look of its compact resorts and even tinier inland villages is very English, particularly the acres of manicured lawns and exquisite flower gardens, while you’ll use sterling in shops and cafes.
There’s something for everybody on Jersey too — active breaks for walkers, cyclists, sailors and watersports enthusiasts, as well as indulgent escapes for lazy gourmands like us, who were just keen to potter and enjoy the food for which the island is famous.
Rich dairy produce comes from Jersey’s beautiful coffee-coloured cows, along with fish so fresh it reaches restaurant kitchens within hours and the famous Jersey Royal potatoes, so delicious they have earned their own Protected Designation of Origin guarantee.
We stayed first at the stylish, family-owned Atlantic Hotel, tucked away in the south-west corner of the island, with its own relaxed fine dining restaurant as well as lovely gardens, a buzzy pool and terrace.
The hotel’s iconic décor is designed to resemble an ocean liner, plus you’ll find more unexpected amenities like the tented spa perched on the point, looking out to the sea.
The sliding doors of our ocean view room opened to a Juliet balcony, to revel in the sea air and luminous light reflected from the Atlantic itself far below.
Less than 10 minutes’ drive from the Atlantic, there are more casual places to eat by the waterside and the fabulous broad sandy crescent of St Brelade’s Bay — time your visit to one of the many restaurants and cafes around the tides, and you can make the most of the expanse of beach before it’s covered by the sea too.
In nearby St Aubin, another short drive away, we indulged in fresh fish at the Old Court House Inn, overlooking the picturesque harbour, as well as afternoon tea with Jersey cream at the Somerville Hotel, which towers above the tiny town.
The hotel’s own lovely sea-view suites are set in a private garden.
Heading north to find many of Jersey’s best attractions, semi-hidden off narrow lanes, was equally straightforward from the Atlantic, with our route leading us past the breakers of the surfing beaches to the main roads heading east.
Hiring a car is the best way to see the island’s highlights over a long weekend, although you will also find buses to transport you across Jersey, only nine miles from end to end.
Jersey Zoo alone is worth a trip: at Gerald Durrell’s wildlife conservation centre, you can get up close with a family of gorillas in their vast natural habitat, and glimpse meerkats, orangutans, otters and flamingos en route.
A few minutes north-east is Rozel Bay, a near-deserted harbour with a strip of tiny, colourful houses famous for its fabulous, brightly-painted food truck, The Hungry Man. Locals have been queuing here for fast food since 1947; enjoying the excellent coffee at rustic tables overlooking the boats and romantic little bay, it’s not hard to see why.
Along the east coast sits the brooding Norman castle of Mont Orgueil, a medieval fortress that was once Jersey’s front line of defence against the French: today it’s a perfect place to enjoy some wonderful views over to the French mainland, as well as quirky history.
In the castle’s shadow lies the fishing village of Gorey. You’ll find artisan ceramics here, although the best place for island arts and crafts is the Harbour Gallery back in St Aubin’s, which has enticing jewellery made with sea glass and other beachcombing finds plus paintings by local artists.
In the north-west of the island, another picturesque cove worth seeking out is Greve de Lecq, on the less-visited north coast. But the big attraction here is La Mare Vineyards, whose star products also include cider and its by-products, including Jersey black butter, a hangover from the days when two-thirds of local agriculture was turned over to growing apples.
Along with spices, they’re the main ingredient of this “butter”, which is dairy-free and delicious. Also sold at the vineyard, with its pretty gardens and outdoor cafe, is delicate Royal Gin, based on spirits derived from those famous island potatoes.
To continue the theme, don’t miss The Potato Shack at Woodlands Farm, one of the few places to spot Jersey cows grazing in the fields — the spuds themselves can also be found almost everywhere on the island sold from honesty boxes at the side of the road.
Serving brilliant brunch and lunch dishes indoor and out, The Potato Shack’s menu includes an excellent, if slightly unconventional, green shakshuka and superb Jersey Royal hash, and it’s an easy stop along the A9 to the capital St Helier in the centre of the island.
The only real town, with around a third of Jersey’s population (and Michelin-starred restaurant Bohemia), St Helier is the place to go to discover more about the island’s history, as well as browsing the fabulous covered market hall with retro collectibles and fresh produce.
Home to the Jersey Museum and Art Gallery and the island’s Maritime Museum, you can also see the award-winning Occupation Tapestry, made by the people of Jersey to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the island’s liberation.
Those who wish to explore more of the wartime history of the Channel Islands, occupied by the Germans after Britain sent ships to evacuate residents before withdrawing their defence, can also visit the Jersey War Tunnels in St Lawrence, dug by slave workers.
Alongside the exhibition, with its tales of island resistance and pre-liberation travails including near-starvation, there’s an Escape Room, an uneasy attraction in a monument to troubled times which saw those Jews who remained persecuted, deprived of their assets and in some cases deported to internment camps.
But we decided not to dwell on the darker past of an island which has seen a resurgence of Jewish life, with a synagogue for the small community in St Brelade and a Jewish community whose heritage stretches back to the 1790s.
Leaving Jersey, we had the refreshing feeling of having been ‘somewhere else’, a welcome contrast to home — and the equally welcome bonus of Duty Free local gin — along with a warm welcome from islanders happy to see tourists return.
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